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I guess anything is possible, but I'm hoping there might be a way I can do this. My dream guitar is a 12-fret dreadnought and it comes with a hefty price tag which is out of reach. And, nobody seems to make an inexpensive version. So, I'd like to explore the possibility of converting a 14-fret dreadnought to 12-fret. I'm a newbie and plan on starting my first kit at some point, but the entry level kit designs are uninspiring. So, in the meantime I'd also like to consider the options of doing an inexpensive conversion as a trial run, if possible. Picking up a used dreadnought is easy enough, removing the neck is doable, and removing the top is within reach. I understand the top would have to be replaced with bridge properly realigned, etc. But, are there any inexpensive 12-fret neck options available to fit onto a body? (The only option I've found is StewMac but their high quality product would not suit a project like this...) Has anybody every converted a 14-fret to a 12-fret? Haven't found any threads about this on here. Thanks a million!

I think it could be cheaper, easier and more rewarding to build a new guitar. There is no standard neck joint for acoustic guitars; it would be hard to purchase a cheap neck that can replace the neck already on the guitar.

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http://www.Harvestmoonguitars.com

I think it would be problematic for many reasons. The bridge position and therefore the X brace positioning are for a 14. The intonation would be way off. Shortening the neck at the heel end would compromise the joint. If you are determined to do this, look for a damaged guitar, maybe one with a broken neck. Remove the back, reset the braces, buy or build the appropriate neck. A set of 12 fret plans will give you the correct dimensioning. Good luck.

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Brad Hall
Mystic Dawg Guitars

Johnny, in the electric guitar world people convert guitars (usually fenders style) to different scale lengths using what are called "conversion necks". Some times they put a short Gibson scale neck on, sometimes its a long baritone scale. What happens its that the bridge location is fixed so everything else, including the neck to body joint has to move.

It is theoretically possible to do it on an acoustic but basically you would be completely rebuilding the guitar and as I tried to point out in your other post, this is infinitely harder than building from scratch.

Others have mentioned some of the problems you will encounter but they inclue
- fitting a new neck to the old neck block
- if you stay with the same scale (what ever it is) you will be pushing the neck about 1-1/2 inch down the top. That moves the bridge, which needs to sit over the bridge plate and X brace. So really that means a new top
- if you change scale length then in theory you wouldn't have to move the bridge. Measure from your present bridge location to the end of the body (14th fret) and double that, that will be your new scale. Build a neck and fretboard to that scale...

Find a set of long scale 000 12 fret plans (the StewMac ones would be good). Draw a dreadnaught body over that. Make it slope shoulder or square shoulder - what ever you like. Bend the sides to that shape, brace the top like the 000 but extend to the sides - bingo, you have a 12 fret dread.

I did something like this when I built my 12 fret 00 - I took my 000 plans, resized the body and moved the braces around. Its one of my favorite guitars

I've built five guitars out of the same rim mold, with 12, 13, 14 fret necks Martin long scale, Martin short scale, and long scale and short scale fretboards shortened by cutting the fingerboard off at the first fret. Each one of these needed unique bracing, soundhole location, and bridge positioning. No drawing was used more than once. The work spent converting an existing guitar will be better spent on making one from the beginning, or finding a friendly luthier to make one.

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Peter Havriluk

Sounds like a good use for one of those cheap Chinese necks. Not sure if they're available for 12 fretters or not. Just cut the neck off (or find a bolt on) and retop some ole guitar. Put the new one on with a butt joint, threaded inserts and bolts. Boom.

I wouldn't spend too much time refining the finish, and such. Skip the top binding. Otherwise just build one from scratch.

Pat

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Pat